3D Printed Mask from Scratch...

      3D Printed Mask from Scratch...

      Tl;dr: 3D printed, PLA-based WIP full-head mask.
      It's already been a few weeks in progress, but I thought posting it here would be better for me to keep track, and for everyone else to critic and/or give suggestions.

      >So this is my first time printing large-scale objects like a mask. I started with the popular TDA miku model, and conversion to a printable mesh version was done with SketchUp.
      >First printed was a 1/2 scale mock-up of the original low-poly model of the front-facing half. The polygons were clearly visible.
      Files
      • Untitled.png

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      >Kigu WIP<
      The mesh was further smoothed in 3dsmax and sliced into 5 piece to fit in the printing volume. Switched to black filament since I used up the remaining red filaments printing other stuff.
      I tried Loctite ultra liquid control(aka cyanoacrylate superglue) to glue the PLA parts together, but the result was some weak bonds between parts.
      Alternatively I used heat gun and soldering iron at ~220°C to "weld" the parts together. The welded seams are crappy, but it's a much stronger bond since they are essentially one piece of plastic right now.
      There is some problem with the printer's motor (check out the huge fault line at the top part), and one of the motor got stuck eventually. Luckily it's after all the parts finished printing.
      Attached is the entire thing, without any sanding or filler:
      Files
      • Untitled.jpg

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      >Kigu WIP<
      Took me a while to get through some mess in real life... Anyway here's the update.
      To fill the gap and smooth out contour fault lines, I used some Elmer wood filler, one that's purple when wet and turns white when cured.
      After some days of sanding (from 180 all the way to 2000 grit) I sprayed a few layers of the sandable filler primer spray can from Rust-Oleum. There's a lot of dents, but they'll be flattened out later.
      Here's the picture I took when it's drying on my bike seat.
      Files
      • Untitled.jpg

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      >Kigu WIP<
      A lot had happened to me back in December and it took me a while to get through: I accidentally spilled organic solvent on the paint and basically destroyed the paintwork. Anyway at least it looked nice before that...
      It took another few days of sanding and layering fillers to cover up major dents, and the minor dents were filled manually with spray fillers. This time sanding started with 220 grit to 1000 grit, since sanding above 1500 grit didn't help much on detailing. The final painting was done indoor, since it's getting cold and windy outside, and the paint cans will not work properly at such condition. Used the laundry room instead since there's dedicated ventilation. I did not plan to get an airbrush in the foreseeable future, so spray cans were my go-to solution. I bought a few cans of flesh-colored nitro-acrylic paint, some matte varnish and a few cheap brushes. It took me a while to get used to the spraying and layering of the paint, but it went well in the end and I was able to get a nice coat of bubble-free, run-free paint.
      Attached is how it looked like after paint, cured for an hour at room temp (75F/24C).
      After that I went through the solvent accident and had to start over with another fresh-printed base. This time I used white PLA filaments, and instead of welding I tried a special PLA glue (Weld-on #16) to stick parts together without making odd bumps. It worked well and took less than 10 minutes to dry to touch, with excellent structural integrity. Things went smoothly (although I was skipping some details), and it took me another 1 whole week to finish printing and paintwork before I left for Christmas.
      Files
      • Untitled.png

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      >Kigu WIP<