Capabilities of 3D Scanning/Printing Technology

      Hello Cici,

      I'm using "Rock 240" polyester resin. A domestic only product I believe. I guess what I wanted to say is the choice between a more "filling-focused" technique versus a "abrasion-focused" technique. It's definitely a lot of filling involved for PLA prints.

      What is your experience like printing with ABS?
      Is it easy to sand down in post-printing, yet durable enough to use as a mask?
      If it's easy to sand down but maybe not durable enough, I was thinking of putting a layer of FRP on the reverse side as reinforcement.
      ABS should be more workable when sanding, and more durable - it's softer, so when beat around it will simply bend, where as PLA will crack. It's also easier to glue, and you can use acetone to smooth it. Your big issue with ABS is actually printing with it, since it's known to warp itself off the printbed. Mask parts are very large, and have little bed contact points, which makes them warp off very easily - I had some issues even with PLA. If you can get it to stick, ABS is the winner.

      Adding FRP would make it more durable for sure, pretty much anything fiber-reinforced is strong as tits. But honestly, I don't see it being necessary unless you treat your kigurumi costumes extremely rough.
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      Post was edited 2 times, last by “KineticIsEpic” ().

      Hello KineticlsEpic,

      Thank you for your feedback.

      I started my design preparations for my 2nd project... even though the 1st project isn't done yet = P

      This time, my the concept will include printing the hair parts, so it's good to hear from your experience that ABS can bend a little. I was a little concerned about those pointy hair "branches" breaking off if the performer is not careful when turning his/her head left and right, and forgetting that forceful impact of the printed hair into the performer's shoulder could break the parts. Since I'm outsourcing the printing to a professional 3D printing service, I'm not concerned about warping, since they will be responsible for the product quality. Also, the printing vendor uses large extruder-type 3D printers specifically designed for printing "life size figures", so they are able to print the whole mask as one piece if I so desire.

      My colleague informed me that an interior coating of FRP may not be necessary on the underside of the ABS. If I'm nervous about it, I guess I could print using a thickness of 4 or 5 millimeters.
      I'm going to throw my experience with 3d printed hair here:
      Breaking is indeed an issue for me, but mostly since I printed with PLA, and did so really thin (a little over 1mm average) to save filament. If you make your model 3mm thick, this shouldn't be a big issue, less so if you use ABS. Also, assuming your service has the ability to make it, you could print the hair as part of the mask itself, which would make it much, much more durable, the only issue would be painting. Your last issue is how to cover the back of the head. Ideally, you'll need to make the back half separate, and hinge it so you can get in and out. Personally I just covered the back with cloth since I was out of filament, but it doesn't look very good at all.

      I wouldn't recommend printing it all in one shot, because you'll either wind up printing the mask face-up, which will make the ridges a lot bigger, or use support, which will make the surface rough. Granted I only have experience with at home 3d printing, so things may be different for you.
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      The design I had in mind is to divide the mask in half, allowing the two halves to "sandwich" the performers head.

      Using this life-size figure printed by FIGUREX for reference, I would divide the back and front sections of the head.
      Also, the front hair section may also be removable, which will probably be necessary.



      Referencing Nukopan's design of their Ra-type mask, the front and back sections can be secured together using a combination of inner "support brackets" and magnets.
      Monaka Workshop already uses this technique for some of their client's masks.



      Each section would be printed separately. Any support material and rough surfaces can be sanded off in post-printing.

      Due to the fragility of 3D printed hair, especially long sections, extra care is needed.
      I suppose such a mask design would be impractical for activities that involve lots of motion or movement.
      However, the goal of my project is to aim for a "figure effect" purely for photography, not for a performance involving a lot of motion.

      Post was edited 3 times, last by “Kana Otonashi” ().

      elhmelizee wrote:

      A question at the time of printing a kigurumi, apart from the base pattern, of how much must be done in a 3d printer and it is possible to be made with a model of pattern for 3d impression?

      I can't really understand your questions too well, but the time? Looooong time. My mask took 6 pieces, each taking 2-6 hours - and that was not even half a head at the fastest settings. Not an really an issue however, since you can do whatever shit you want in the meantime (but check on it!).
      How much must be done in the printer? If I understand this question, you can do anything from just the front face (saves time and money at the cost of having a back-head issue to solve) to an entire head with a closeable back (awesome but will take 3x the filament and time, plus you'd have to create the hinge somehow - fun). I'd say, if you have the filament, make as much of the mask as you can with without requiring the aforementioned hinge. You'll have to finish it by hand either way, which can either be done by just sanding like I did, or using a special filler compound on top of the plastic and sanding that.
      I'm not familiar with 3d impression, but if it's a sort of negative model (the inside is the object, like a mold) then you'll have to make sure that the outside is the object you want. Also, it needs to have a high poly-count, otherwise triangles will show up in the print.
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