A way to use Pepakura to attempt a Kig Mask.

      A way to use Pepakura to attempt a Kig Mask.

      Ok please understand I am not very good at sculpting and have in the past really not been able to get things off the ground with a raw sculpt. So I have done past things for Costume projects. I will be upfront this is just a way for me to get to the sculpting shapes I feel I can do a bit faster. Pepakura has an issue of being very geodesic so it is not a very good way to have a smooth mask with out planning to use it as a base to then sculpt stuff atop. Well let me first link to the open source file for the pepakura file of the head I am starting with.


      Ok. So for those not aware Pepakura is a paper folding program that converts 3D objects into a paper folding project. this has been used for costume armor successfully by folks doing Halo Armor and even Warhammer stuff in the past and there is a lot out there on it. But here is an image of what the file can look like when put together.

      So I am now going to show my attempts at the making of the cardstock part of it.

      So once I had completed putting the mask together from all the cut out and folded Pepakura pieces I then got out my epoxies to play with. many use the bondo brand epoxy you can get at walmart or an auto parts store, but I had some good Marine Epoxy I needed to use up from a project on an RC boat. I am useing West system Epoxy in the project. for those interested this is a link to their site.


      today I started the coating of the pepakura form in my epoxy. I will let it cure and dry over night. from there I will then prepare the inside of the head for laying in fiberglass. I will not be wearing this head so I plan to lay up several layers of fiberglass starting with a good weave cloth layer and add a layer or two of mat glass and then finally another layer of the weave cloth. all this will make things really tough and bale to support either bondo or clay that I may use. it will also be think enoght that if I sand through the cardstock I will not have a hole. Well here is the pictures of the head as it stands tonight.

      As we can see I am not always perfect in assembly and there seems to be a few off proportions on the head. thankfully that can all be corrected with the planned sculpting. I will be sharing more on my Facebook page and here as I progress. Anyone's questions and feedback is welcome as you can only get better as you try and hear opinions.

      Oh and just for fun my eventual Kig Will be based on the following
      Raven Ocelot
      So this morning the resin coat was cured fully. I got to working cutting out glass mat material and then got to the fun of mixing the resin and slowly laying up the fiberglass to the inside of the mask. Do let some of the resin and glass cure a bit before you move to the opposite side of the mask otherwise you glass will possibly fall off or sag out of place.

      So a few shots as I started off the layup of the glass.

      As you can see from the above I work the fiberglass mat in cut sections into the mask. I also let each batch of resin some what start into the curing process so that things stay in place. how fast that happens really depends on the resin and the temperatures. today was the the minimum temps I would want to work with my resin in. It was like molasses and that made things a bit harder to work with. I will soon need to run some portable heaters in the garage to keep things warmer. I allways work with the door open to the outside as the fumes will make you sick and please wear a mask.

      all glassed up and curing now. will not get to do much till tomorrow evening now as I really need all that to cure proper before I lay in the last glass I will put in which is the fiberglass weave cloth just to really add strength to the whole thing. Once all that is cured I get to have fun working on the outside filling all the indention's smooth and then I begin the real work.
      Raven Ocelot
      Are you "I hope" using latex gloves and a air filter??

      When laying-up coat the entire surface "before" applying the matte. You can even let that coat go tacky before laying in the matt. get the first layer down and immediately lay-in the second. that's really all you should need {especially for a pattern).

      I see you're using .75 oz matt, good choice.
      thank you for mentioning the gloves and mask. I use 5 mil thickness Nitrile gloves. I also have been using a mask with cartridge filters that I have had for a few years. I recently replaced my filters it cause it was just time to do it, but I may need to buy a new mask as I had to go on line to find filters for my older mask now. I will be laying up another layer this afternoon I think on the mat to get things stronger.

      Well as of this evening I have added a second layer of the Matt glass on a suggestion from Cici. I should have a more solid piece now to do surface work with soon.
      Raven Ocelot

      Post was edited 1 time, last by “Raven Ocelot” ().

      Well I am now starting into the fun of filling in all the valleys and divots in the mask. this consists of using body filler. the most well known brand is bondo body filler. To me this is the least fun of the project as it is a lot of mixing body filler and applying it to the mask. Let it dry and sand down to the high points. then you repeat till you get a smooth curve between all the high points it is looks like one smooth continuous surface. Here is some shots from this morning after I had added some filler over night.

      not sure if anyone notices but I have a really rough spot I had applied filler in the pictures. this is a bad thing as that is the filler starting to harden and it does not always apply good or smooth. keep you filler batches small enough to work with. I did some sanding when I got home from work and then applied more to the mask in body filler tonight.

      I hope everyone can see the start of a nice dome shape to the top of the head. This will take time and patience to get the right feel and flow to the entire head doing this. understand this is likely the most time consuming part of the project. Ask any one else who has made a mask and they will agree that the use of body filler to anything is a slow process, but the end results can be very rewarding. My next updates may be a few days off as I want to have some good progress to show on the next update.
      Raven Ocelot
      I see a few problems but they are beginner's problems...
      1. you're trying to create the shape you want in one pass. It will take you a few passes, slowly build up the filler.
      2. The rough areas that show porosity, you allied filler after it's pot life was spent. These areas will be grainy, full of pin holes. if the filler starts to go off you should discard it and mix a new batch.
      3. Letting it sit overnight for some reason always gets beginners in the behind. The longer you let it sit the harder it becomes and more difficult to sand. Next time let it cure for an hour. Knock off the high spots and refill after that using 60 grit paper.
      You may also want to try a sureform
      We use these for large area sculpting.
      Let the filler cure to thumbnail hardness.
      Then use the tool to cheese grate the filler
      down to the desired level you want.

      cici thanks for the suggestions. I think I am on my 4th pass on some areas as the valleys are just two deep to do in so few. I am dealing with temps over night that drop below 45 in my garage so the hardening takes longer. I am having little issues sanding right now when useing a 60 grit paper. Either way thanks for the advice as it still has a long ways to go. but I will be getting there. I gotta keep in mind I am not working a car body that is full of large flat areas.
      Raven Ocelot
      So in keeping the Momentum going on this. I got more body filler last night. today I got back to working on it after I was off work. I am starting to get thinner layers as I am working now as I am really getting a lot of tweaking of the shape more than just filling in areas. So here is shots of things before the first sanding was done tonight.

      Well I did my sanding of all the new filler and even started taking away some of the shape about the nose and mouth area. the nose feels really low to me and well not enough mouth area either. I really would not mind hearing if other agree or not with this thought. But this is the last of some filler for the night added in very thin coats mainly just trying to get rid of some air pockets I have from being a bit thick in filler earlier on.

      thanks to all looking at the posts and to those commenting and leaving feed back.
      Raven Ocelot
      You are doing very nice!
      I'm also on this filling part, but I'm using an " acrylic putty"(not sure how it should be called in english :x) instead, that is easier to hand sanding but also cracks very easily if I do much layers or bend it a bit so it's not a good idea to have it as a final result but could give me a nice mold o3o

      Let's keep going o7
      ( ^w^)/ hey~

      so did a lot of changes last night and filler work. biggest change is I removed the nose I had a dislike for and started raising up the area I want the mouth and cheeks to be. the nose will be added back later as a full sculpt but for now I want to get all the base set how I wish it. yes there is still some filly and then to try and get it to look symmetrical.

      Raven Ocelot
      After a visit to a friend to see two kig masks up close that are made by Ride the Pig Studios I have found that while my own mask project has been fun it is was off from what it should be. First off it is way narrow like as in three inches too narrow. That is part of why I kept feeling something was off. To get back on track I will smooth out what I have and likely switch to clay to build up stuff. Just really at a point with it that either I start new with another base pep or find a way to make some pretty major changes. Neither prospect is looking good on my poor budget.
      Raven Ocelot