Clay sculpting now

      Clay sculpting now

      So here I start over after learning on my use of pepakura and some clay. Sadly the clay I have is a sulfur based clay and will need to be sealed before I can pull a mold. Please research the clay you plan to use if you do this and get a clay that is not sulfur based as a silicone mold will not sure properly unless the cay gets sealed.

      So this is what I have started with.
      4 lbs of a Plasticine clay ( yes I got a sulfur based clay which is not wise)
      A Styrofoam male head
      a dowel rod that fits into the head opening.
      a piece of plywood as a base.

      I made a stand from the plywood and the down rod to support the head while I apply clay and sculpt.

      Raven Ocelot
      Added another 4 lbs of clay to the model today. Roughing in some of the shape as I need to get some idea of where to build up. Eight lbs of clay total on it. Pretty sure it will take about 8 more to get the entire thing completed.

      I am pretty sure I will need to add some width and height to it. I am thinking more height to the top and forehead area. But till I have atleast laid the back of the head I am not going to jump to adding height. I can see witch is needed as neither side is symmetrical just yet. Since I am a novice at sculpting this will be slow and a good bit of trial and error on stuff. I may add or pull too much away as I go along. Thank god it is clay and can be added back to the areas.
      Raven Ocelot
      Your progress so far looks good. You have learned from past experience.

      Not to jump ahead too far in the process but...

      I've heard bad things about not being ever able to seal sulfur based clay well enough to do a silicone mold. However, a trick my old mentor had, was making the two piece mold right on the finished sculpture, using fiberglass resin and cloth.

      Once the fiberglass mold was bolted back together, Carnuba car wax was used as a release agent, and to fill in the seam between the halves of the mold. Then Gelcoat cast inside the mold to make the first outer layer of the shell.

      Silicone is expensive. Fiberglass not so much.

      Miss Kiki

      uhm...... the cheek shelf is highest at the nose and falls away towards the jawline. The brow region drops lowest at the nose bridge and rises towards the eye centre and falls off a bit towards the temple. Draw a largish, flattened "X" through the middle of the face. It should sorta fit and that's where the eyes should go. Note how high and rounded the forehead is and how diminished the jawline is. The eye pockets are smaller and shallower than normally done, these are often rendered overly large and cavernous. The lower part of the face is small, small, small even for a seinen adult and the the cranium and upper face should be large and balloonish - like the innocent unborn babby...... y'know, one of those......'>........
      Try knowing a few heteronorms. They'll broaden your horizons without a lot of drama. It's great, try it....'>......

      Post was edited 1 time, last by “lzzrdgrrl” ().

      So this is my 3rd attempt only because I took some advice from Neko Nico. To save on an amount of clay I built up a base over the foam head useing foam insulation board that I sectioned up and got glued into place. I got about all the area I want now covered in clay and have started to add some shape into it. There is a need for more clay but this is much better on the amount than what I was looking at useing. I realize I got a lot of shaping to do but I feel I am at a good place with it at this point.

      Raven Ocelot
      I've again taken to my favorite tool to illustrate some movements in the sculpt.
      Forehead is a bit shallow, nosebridge to pronounced and the transition from the
      forehead to the nose needs s bit more definition. I increased the bulk as well....
      1. One the increase was for more headroom inside the mask
      2. To give the hair more volume, trying to keep the gentle curve that's so important.
      ​I know you'll address the cheek shelf. Your designs seem to go to a very sharp cheek. You'll need to
      soften the transition curve from the jaw line to the cheek and back into the eye socket.

      All in all?? Number 3 in less than 6 months?? You're doing good!!!!
      I feel I am making the same mistakes a bit. Honestly this attempt is limited. It needs more clay right now. While I am trying to shape a bit I know I am really limited as there is not much depth to the clay right now. I have in some places the foam about to poke out of the clay.

      I am struggling with the cheeks to be honest. I am sure my lack of sculpting skills is part of my issue.
      Raven Ocelot
      Better yet reproduce your reference profile full size, mount it on a cardboard and cut it out:

      In fact, cut another frontal view and maybe some others. Save the 'face' part but you want to use the CUTOUT part and then just simply mould your sculpt to fit.....^^........

      Try knowing a few heteronorms. They'll broaden your horizons without a lot of drama. It's great, try it....'>......
      so been doing some reworking. I got a shape I was pretty happy with.

      so spent some time after that working on just balancing the rough shape. Once I got done with balancing I then followed some advice I have and began figuring out the cheeks, nose, and eye socket areas.

      no I realize I have a hard line on the cheeks I do not like and will begin to work those away some, but I still need to work on the transitions from the cheeks to eyes areas some too. This is the hardest part for me as I want softer lines and I tend to happen towards harsh lines.
      Raven Ocelot